{"id":29346,"date":"2025-06-18T13:38:27","date_gmt":"2025-06-18T05:38:27","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.odychina.com\/stone-ear-stewed-free-range-chicken-a-rare-taste-of-chinas-mountain-heritage.html"},"modified":"2025-11-27T13:18:42","modified_gmt":"2025-11-27T05:18:42","slug":"stone-ear-stewed-free-range-chicken-a-rare-taste-of-chinas-mountain-heritage","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.odychina.com\/cs\/stone-ear-stewed-free-range-chicken-a-rare-taste-of-chinas-mountain-heritage.html","title":{"rendered":"Ku\u0159e z voln\u00e9ho chovu du\u0161en\u00e9 s houbou Stone Ear: vz\u00e1cn\u00e1 chu\u0165 \u010d\u00ednsk\u00e9ho horsk\u00e9ho d\u011bdictv\u00ed"},"content":{"rendered":"

Ingredience zrozen\u00e1 z \u00fates\u016f<\/span><\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

Vysoko v mlhav\u00fdch hor\u00e1ch ji\u017en\u00ed \u010c\u00edny, skryt\u00e1 mezi strm\u00fdmi \u00fatesy a stinn\u00fdmi roklemi, roste jedna z nejvz\u00e1cn\u011bj\u0161\u00edch hub v \u010d\u00ednsk\u00e9 gastronomii: kamenn\u00fd ucho, m\u00edstn\u011b zn\u00e1m\u00fd jako <\/span><\/span>\u0161i’er<\/span><\/span><\/em> (\u77f3\u8033). Tato nepolapiteln\u00e1 pochoutka, kterou nelze zam\u011b\u0148ovat s d\u0159ev\u011bn\u00fdmi u\u0161n\u00edmi houbami, se dr\u017e\u00ed pouze ur\u010dit\u00fdch druh\u016f mechem pokryt\u00fdch skaln\u00edch st\u011bn a \u010dasto vy\u017eaduje, aby ji vy\u0161kolen\u00ed sb\u011bra\u010di zdol\u00e1vali strm\u00e9 \u0159\u00edmsy. Jeho omezen\u00e9 prost\u0159ed\u00ed, sez\u00f3nn\u00ed dostupnost a jedine\u010dn\u00e1 textura z n\u011bj \u010din\u00ed jednu z nejcenn\u011bj\u0161\u00edch ingredienc\u00ed tradi\u010dn\u00ed horsk\u00e9 kuchyn\u011b.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Pokrm, kter\u00fd je s touto ingredienc\u00ed nejzn\u00e1m\u011bj\u0161\u00ed, je du\u0161en\u00e9 ku\u0159e z voln\u00e9ho chovu s kamenn\u00fdmi u\u0161ima \u2013 skromn\u00fd n\u00e1zev pro hluboce bohat\u00fd kulin\u00e1\u0159sk\u00fd z\u00e1\u017eitek. Spojuje dva hluboce zako\u0159en\u011bn\u00e9 aspekty \u010d\u00ednsk\u00e9 kulin\u00e1\u0159sk\u00e9 kultury: \u00factu k vz\u00e1cn\u00fdm p\u0159\u00edrodn\u00edm ingredienc\u00edm a pomalu du\u0161en\u00e9 teplo klasick\u00e9 dom\u00e1c\u00ed kuchyn\u011b. Pro cestovatele, kte\u0159\u00ed tou\u017e\u00ed po autentick\u00fdch chutech a z\u00e1jmu o kulin\u00e1\u0159sk\u00e9 d\u011bdictv\u00ed, nab\u00edz\u00ed tento pokrm nezapomenuteln\u00fd a smyslupln\u00fd z\u00e1\u017eitek z region\u00e1ln\u00ed kuchyn\u011b.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Symbol moudrosti p\u0159\u00edrody<\/span><\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

Kamenn\u00e9 ucho je cen\u011bno nejen pro svou vz\u00e1cnost, ale tak\u00e9 pro sv\u00e9 \u00fadajn\u00e9 zdravotn\u00ed p\u0159\u00ednosy. V tradi\u010dn\u00ed \u010d\u00ednsk\u00e9 medic\u00edn\u011b se v\u011b\u0159\u00ed, \u017ee vy\u017eivuje pl\u00edce, chlad\u00ed vnit\u0159n\u00ed teplo a podporuje tr\u00e1ven\u00ed. Jeho pevn\u00e1, ale hedv\u00e1bn\u00e1 textura, lehce miner\u00e1ln\u00ed v\u016fn\u011b a schopnost absorbovat chu\u0165 bez rozkladu mu d\u00e1vaj\u00ed zvl\u00e1\u0161tn\u00ed m\u00edsto v l\u00e9\u010div\u00fdch du\u0161en\u00fdch pokrmech a slavnostn\u00edch hostin\u00e1ch.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Sklize\u0148 kamenn\u00e9ho klasu nen\u00ed snadn\u00fd \u00fakol. Vyskytuje se pouze v nedot\u010den\u00e9m, nezne\u010di\u0161t\u011bn\u00e9m prost\u0159ed\u00ed, obvykle v nadmo\u0159sk\u00e9 v\u00fd\u0161ce nad 1 000 metr\u016f, a je produktem \u010dasu i ter\u00e9nu. M\u00edstn\u00ed sb\u011bra\u010di, \u010dasto s generacemi znalost\u00ed sb\u011bru potravy, houby pe\u010dliv\u011b vyb\u00edraj\u00ed a su\u0161\u00ed ru\u010dn\u011b. V tomto smyslu kamenn\u00fd klas s sebou nese esenci nedot\u010den\u00e9 divo\u010diny \u2013 vzduch, k\u00e1men, vlhkost a trp\u011blivost.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Ku\u0159e pou\u017e\u00edvan\u00e9 v du\u0161en\u00e9m mase je obvykle p\u016fvodn\u00edho plemene chovan\u00e9ho na mal\u00fdch vesnick\u00fdch farm\u00e1ch, zn\u00e1m\u00e9ho pro sv\u00e9 pevn\u00e9 maso a bohatou chu\u0165. Tito pt\u00e1ci se voln\u011b pohybuj\u00ed v horsk\u00fdch les\u00edch, \u017eiv\u00ed se obilovinami a bylinkami a jejich maso se od masov\u011b chovan\u00e9 dr\u016fbe\u017ee zna\u010dn\u011b li\u0161\u00ed. Kdy\u017e se du\u0161en\u00e9 maso podus\u00ed spole\u010dn\u011b s kamenn\u00fdm klasem, z\u00e1zvorem, kustovnic\u00ed a n\u011bkdy i \u017een\u0161enem \u010di jin\u00fdmi ko\u0159eny, v\u00fdsledkem je hluboce v\u00fd\u017eivn\u00fd v\u00fdvar s vrstvami umami, sladkosti a jemn\u00e9 ho\u0159kosti.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Od vesnick\u00e9ho krbu k elegantn\u00edm stol\u016fm<\/span><\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

Ku\u0159e du\u0161en\u00e9 v kamenn\u00fdch u\u0161\u00edch bylo tradi\u010dn\u011b slavnostn\u00edm pokrmem p\u0159ipravovan\u00fdm b\u011bhem rodinn\u00fdch setk\u00e1n\u00ed, svateb nebo po \u00fasp\u011b\u0161n\u00e9 sklizni. Bylo vn\u00edm\u00e1no jako dar hor i odm\u011bna za tvrdou pr\u00e1ci \u2013 zp\u016fsob, jak se pod\u011blit o hojnost p\u0159\u00edrody zp\u016fsobem, kter\u00fd ctil jak tradici, tak chu\u0165.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Dnes lze toto j\u00eddlo nal\u00e9zt v pe\u010dliv\u011b vybran\u00fdch region\u00e1ln\u00edch restaurac\u00edch, butikov\u00fdch eko-chat\u00e1ch a horsk\u00fdch penzionech, kter\u00e9 se zam\u011b\u0159uj\u00ed na sez\u00f3nn\u00ed a udr\u017eitelnou kuchyni. N\u011bkte\u0159\u00ed cestovatel\u00e9 ho dokonce za\u017e\u00edvaj\u00ed jako sou\u010d\u00e1st programu \u201eod sb\u011bru j\u00eddla a\u017e na st\u016fl\u201c, kde n\u00e1sleduj\u00ed pr\u016fvodce do kopc\u016f, u\u010d\u00ed se rozpozn\u00e1vat jedl\u00e9 horsk\u00e9 rostliny a vracej\u00ed se do kuchyn\u011b, aby si pomohli s p\u0159\u00edpravou j\u00eddla.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

A\u0165 u\u017e je pod\u00e1v\u00e1no v rustik\u00e1ln\u00edm hlin\u011bn\u00e9m hrnci nad d\u0159ev\u011bn\u00fdm ohn\u011bm, nebo v gastronomick\u00e9m prost\u0159ed\u00ed s trochou r\u00fd\u017eov\u00e9ho v\u00edna, du\u0161e pokrmu z\u016fst\u00e1v\u00e1 stejn\u00e1: hlubok\u00e1 \u00facta k ingredienc\u00edm, kter\u00e9 se nejen p\u011bstuj\u00ed, ale i nach\u00e1zej\u00ed.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Pohlcuj\u00edc\u00ed kulin\u00e1\u0159sk\u00fd z\u00e1\u017eitek<\/span><\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

Jedn\u00edm z nejzaj\u00edmav\u011bj\u0161\u00edch zp\u016fsob\u016f, jak si tento pokrm vychutnat, je praktick\u00fd z\u00e1\u017eitek z va\u0159en\u00ed. V mnoha horsk\u00fdch oblastech provinci\u00ed An-chuej, Hunan nebo Kuej-\u010dou se n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvn\u00edci mohou p\u0159ipojit k m\u00edstn\u00edm kucha\u0159\u016fm v tradi\u010dn\u00edch kuchyn\u00edch a nau\u010dit se cel\u00fd proces \u2013 rehydrataci kamenn\u00e9ho ucha, pomal\u00e9 du\u0161en\u00ed ku\u0159ete na m\u00edrn\u00e9m ohni a pochopen\u00ed, jak se ka\u017ed\u00e1 bylina vyb\u00edr\u00e1 tak, aby odpov\u00eddala ro\u010dn\u00edmu obdob\u00ed a klimatu.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

B\u011bhem tohoto procesu se \u010dasto vypr\u00e1v\u011bj\u00ed p\u0159\u00edb\u011bhy \u2013 vypr\u00e1v\u011bn\u00ed o \u00fazk\u00fdch stezk\u00e1ch u \u00fates\u016f, kde se skl\u00edz\u00ed kamenn\u00e9 klasy, nebo d\u011btsk\u00e9 vzpom\u00ednky na ochutn\u00e1vku tohoto pokrmu b\u011bhem lun\u00e1rn\u00edho Nov\u00e9ho roku. Tento kulturn\u00ed kontext dod\u00e1v\u00e1 j\u00eddlu emocion\u00e1ln\u00ed bohatstv\u00ed, d\u00edky \u010demu\u017e je nejen lahodn\u00e9, ale i hluboce nezapomenuteln\u00e9.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

V\u016fn\u011b pokrmu je nezapomenuteln\u00e1. Je zemit\u00e1, pikantn\u00ed, lehce kv\u011btinov\u00e1 d\u00edky horsk\u00fdm bylink\u00e1m a uklid\u0148uj\u00edc\u00ed tak, jak m\u016f\u017ee b\u00fdt jen pomalu va\u0159en\u00fd v\u00fdvar. Prvn\u00ed l\u017e\u00edce odhal\u00ed nejen chu\u0165, ale i texturu \u2013 k\u0159ehk\u00e9 ku\u0159ec\u00ed maso, jemn\u00e9 \u017ev\u00fdk\u00e1n\u00ed kamenn\u00e9ho klasu, m\u011bkkost kustovnice \u010d\u00ednsk\u00e9. Ka\u017ed\u00fd prvek je odli\u0161n\u00fd, ale harmonick\u00fd a odhaluje vrstvy chuti formovan\u00e9 m\u00edstem, tradic\u00ed a \u010dasem.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Kombinace p\u0159\u00edrodn\u00edch kr\u00e1s a kulin\u00e1\u0159sk\u00e9ho d\u011bdictv\u00ed<\/span><\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

Tento pokrm je obzvl\u00e1\u0161t\u011b atraktivn\u00ed d\u00edky zp\u016fsobu, jak\u00fdm propojuje p\u0159\u00edrodn\u00ed sv\u011bt s kulin\u00e1\u0159sk\u00fdm \u0159emeslem. \u00datesy, kde kamenn\u00e9 ucho roste, se \u010dasto nach\u00e1zej\u00ed v oblastech zapsan\u00fdch na seznamu UNESCO nebo v n\u00e1rodn\u00edch parc\u00edch zn\u00e1m\u00fdch svou ekologickou rozmanitost\u00ed, nebo v jejich bl\u00edzkosti. P\u011b\u0161\u00ed turistika v t\u011bchto oblastech, poslech \u0161ust\u011bn\u00ed list\u00ed nebo pozorov\u00e1n\u00ed divok\u00fdch bylin a hub rostouc\u00edch ze skal v\u00e1m umo\u017en\u00ed hloub\u011bji pochopit p\u016fvod tohoto pokrmu.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Nap\u0159\u00edklad v bl\u00edzkosti \u017dlut\u00fdch hor (Huangshan) nebo krasov\u00fdch vrchol\u016f Zhangjiajie se tento gul\u00e1\u0161 st\u00e1v\u00e1 v\u00edce ne\u017e jen j\u00eddlem \u2013 st\u00e1v\u00e1 se sou\u010d\u00e1st\u00ed samotn\u00e9 krajiny. Ochutnat zde kamenn\u00e9 ucho znamen\u00e1 ochutnat horskou mlhu, \u010dist\u00fd vzduch a trp\u011bliv\u00e9 cykly p\u0159\u00edrody.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Reakce cestovatel\u016f a trval\u00e9 dojmy<\/span><\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

N\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvn\u00edci, kte\u0159\u00ed tento pokrm ochutnaj\u00ed, \u010dasto vyjad\u0159uj\u00ed p\u0159ekvapen\u00ed nad jeho komplexnost\u00ed. \u201eJe to n\u011bco, co jsem je\u0161t\u011b jedl,\u201c poznamenal jeden cestovatel. \u201eHouba m\u00e1 texturu, kter\u00e1 je z\u00e1rove\u0148 jemn\u00e1 i pevn\u00e1, a v\u00fdvar je prost\u011b tak \u010dist\u00fd a hlubok\u00fd.\u201c Jin\u00ed zmi\u0148uj\u00ed emocion\u00e1ln\u00ed rezonanci konzumace n\u011b\u010deho tak \u00fazce spjat\u00e9ho s ur\u010dit\u00fdm prost\u0159ed\u00edm, n\u011b\u010deho, co nelze masov\u011b produkovat ani nal\u00e9zt mimo jeho p\u016fvodn\u00ed oblast.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Pro mnoh\u00e9 se toto j\u00eddlo st\u00e1v\u00e1 jakousi kulin\u00e1\u0159skou kotvou v jejich cestovn\u00edch vzpom\u00ednk\u00e1ch. \u201eP\u0159ijel jsem kv\u016fli krajin\u011b,\u201c napsal dal\u0161\u00ed n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvn\u00edk, \u201eale ku\u0159ec\u00ed gul\u00e1\u0161 si budu pamatovat nav\u017edy. Chutnal jako samotn\u00e1 hora.\u201c<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Ve sv\u011bt\u011b, kde j\u00eddlo \u010dasto ztr\u00e1c\u00ed spojen\u00ed s m\u00edstem, nab\u00edz\u00ed du\u0161en\u00e9 ku\u0159e z voln\u00e9ho chovu s kamenn\u00fdmi u\u0161ima n\u011bco vz\u00e1cn\u00e9ho: chu\u0165, kter\u00e1 m\u016f\u017ee existovat pouze zde, formovanou \u00fatesy, ru\u010dn\u011b vyrobenou a prodchnutou histori\u00ed. Je to pokrm, kter\u00fd nejen uspokoj\u00ed hlad \u2013 vypr\u00e1v\u00ed p\u0159\u00edb\u011bh.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n